BFC Responds To Racism Claims

• 07 September 2013
• Ella Alexander

THE British Fashion Council has responded to racism claims, which allege that London's designers don't use enough black models on the catwalks. The governing bodies of all four fashion capitals have been sent a letter by The Diversity Coalition, spearheaded by activist and former model Bethann Hardison, listing "fashion houses guilty of this racist act".
"The British Fashion Council does not organise model castings for London Fashion Week although, as its governing body, strongly asserts that all participating designers should recognise that London is one of the most multi-cultural cities in the world and should consider reflecting this demographic at their shows and presentations," a spokesperson for the BFC told us this morning. "The BFC is committed to model welfare and is more than happy to engage in tackling any issues regarding best practice and diversity at London Fashion Week."
The damning letter said that "eyes are on an industry that season after season watches design houses consistently use one or no models of colour."
"No matter the intention, the result is racism," it read. "Not accepting another based on the colour of their skin is clearly beyond aesthetic when it is consistent with the designer's brand. Whether it's the decision of the designer, stylist or casting director, that decision to use basically all white models reveals a trait that is unbecoming to modern society. It can no longer be accepted, nor confused by the use of the Asian model."
CFDA executive director Stephen Kolb told WWD that the CFDA had sent two emails over the past fortnight to both industry influencers and CFDA members, encouraging diversity on the NYFW catwalks. He also said that he would be "very happy to meet and to be part of that discussion" if contact details for the coalition are provided (the letter was left unsigned and without an email address or phone number).
Chambre Syndicale president Didier Grumbach described the accusation's as "unreasonable" and noted the forthcoming Paris shows will feature the world of designers of 22 nationalities. Italian Chamber of Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), boss Mario Boselli said participants of the Milanese schedule are entitled to "complete freedom" in choosing which models to feature in their shows.
"As the Camera avoids all discriminations, it suggests to fashion companies to avoid discrimination, but it can't impose anything," Boselli commented. "The Camera has taken action against showing models that are too young or too slim on the runway, in an anti-anorexia effort, and penalises those companies that are found at fault, but has never [deliberated] on skin colour."