Kokosalaki's New Way

• 15 September 2013
• Lauren Milligan

SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI may not appear biannually on the ready-to-wear catwalk as she used to, but showing one carefully curated collection a year certainly works for her - and delights her customers.
"The response has been truly great," Kokosalaki told us. "Some retailers, like Net-A-Porter, have increased their orders dramatically and have also ordered some styles in colours. This is very easy for us to do, since due to the versatility of the dresses they can easily be translated from bridal into pret-a-porter pieces that one can wear again and again."
Although many pieces echo her now signature Grecian-inspired aesthetic, Kokosalaki's 2014 range offers many departures - delicate separates; structured, bell-skirted minidresses; feather-light, fairy-like chiffon gowns - from her favoured shapes and details, because the designer, almost 15 years on from her first collection and following stints as the creative helm of both Vionnet and Diesel Black Gold, knows herself and her customer like never before.
"I have worked on every category over the years and I think I have proved myself adept in casual and contemporary, but I am always happiest when I can create luxurious, elaborate pieces," Kokosalaki admits. "We have an increasing number of young women who come to us requesting a dress that is unique and impressive with a modern point of view, but that perhaps can be worn more than once. Those brides have a very contemporary aesthetic, they are after a dress with great craftsmanship, impeccable fitting that enhances their body and really do not want to wear an overbearing dress."